• Coarse thread for timber: the wide, aggressive thread cuts into softwood studs and holds. You get strong pull-out values and a quick drive.
• Bugle head: the curved head countersinks itself into the board face without ripping the paper. That leaves a clean dish ready for filler and tape.
• 25 degree super sharp point: it starts fast on the board and cuts down on the screw wandering as you set it.
• Phillips PH2 recess: a standard bit most trades already have on the gun or driver. Less cam-out, less chewed heads.
• Fully threaded shank: thread runs the whole length for consistent grip through board and into timber.
• Dark grey phosphate finish: marketed as Black. The phosphate coat lowers friction on the way in and suits dry interior work.
• Carbon steel body: strong enough to drive without snapping heads when you are working at speed.
• Fire Classification A1 and made to BS EN 14566:2008, so they meet the standard for plasterboard fixings.
• Loose, not collated: handy for first fix touch-ups, second fix and any job that does not warrant an auto-feed.

Use these for fixing plasterboard, wallboard and drylining sheets onto timber stud partitions, timber ceiling joists and timber battens. Stud walls, ceilings, dry lined masonry with timber battens, they all take a coarse thread screw.

Here is the key point. Coarse thread means timber. Fine thread means metal. The coarse thread on these screws is cut wide and deep so it can grip soft timber fibres and pull tight. A fine thread would spin and strip in wood, which is why fine thread screws are kept for light gauge metal studs instead. If your framing is timber, reach for these. If your framing is a metal stud, you want the fine thread version. Stick2 stocks a fine thread plasterboard screw for metal studs and a collated coarse thread option as well, so you can pick the right one for the frame in front of you.

They are rated Corrosion Rating 1, which covers clean, dry, low humidity interiors. Keep them for inside work. They are not meant for exposed or damp locations.

• Brand: TIMCO
• Material: Carbon steel
• Finish: Black phosphate
• Head type: Bugle
• Recess: Phillips PH2
• Thread: Coarse, fully threaded
• Point: 25 degree sharp
• Substrate: Plasterboard to timber studwork
• Fire classification: A1
• Standard: BS EN 14566:2008
• Use: Interior drylining
• Pack: Box

What is the difference between coarse thread and fine thread plasterboard screws?

It comes down to what you are screwing into. Coarse thread screws have a wide, deep thread that grips timber. Fine thread screws have a tighter thread cut to bite light gauge metal. These are coarse thread, so they are for timber stud work. Use a fine thread screw on a metal stud instead.

Can I use these on a metal stud wall?

No, keep these for timber. A coarse thread does not hold reliably in metal and can strip. For metal studwork you want a fine thread plasterboard screw, which we also stock.

What is the black finish on these screws?

It is a dark grey phosphate coating. It reads as black, which is why they are sold as black plasterboard screws. The phosphate cuts friction so the screw drives in more smoothly, and it suits dry interior work. It is not a weatherproof coating, so these are Corrosion Rating 1 for inside use only.

Are these fully threaded?

Yes. The thread runs the full length of the shank. That gives you consistent grip through the board and into the timber the whole way down.

What length do I need?

A common rule is to pick a screw that goes at least 20mm to 25mm into the timber past the board. For a single 12.5mm board a 32mm or 38mm screw is a typical choice. For thicker or doubled boards, step up the length. These start at 25mm and run up from there, so match the length to your board build up.

Do they meet the plasterboard fixing standard?

Yes. They are made to BS EN 14566:2008 and carry a Fire Classification of A1, so they meet the recognised standard for screws fixing plasterboard.